DIY Fall Burlap and Ribbon Wreath

With Fall right around the corner I decided I needed a nice fall wreath. Along with that I decided to try my hand at burlap. I know it’s all the rage right now, but I honestly think that burlap can be overdone and overused so it should be used tastefully. So making a wreath is a nice use of burlap that is nice and tasteful. There are many different variations you can use, but I decided to use burlap ribbon in orange and reds with some accent flowers. This honestly turned out totally different than what I wanted it to, but it’s still cute!

Supplies
Metal wreath
3 rolls of burlap (I bought mine from walmart so I needed more)
Roll of solid color burlap (Orange)
Roll of printed burlap (Orange chevron)
Roll of Printed fabric-Burlap consistency (Red chevron)
Fall flowers
Pipe cleaners
Hot glue gun and sticks
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WORD TO THE WISE. DO THIS PART IN A WELL VENTALETED AREA!!! As you work with the burlap the fabric will shed and if you have problems with sinus or allergies it might upset them. It did mine and a week later I’m still feeling it.

Now LET’S GET STARTED!!!!

I’ve made a wreath like this before, but not burlap, and did not need the pipe cleaners, but because the burlap is thicker and more intricate I had to use them this go around.

We want to start wrapping the burlap through the slots. Basically what you are going to do is weave the end in and out and around. Your first line should start at the top but the first loop should be at the bottom with the majority of the burlap in the middle. Also you want to use the pipe cleaner to attach to the end of the fabric and attach it to the vertical bar.
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***HINT*** I found that the easiest way to use the pipe cleaners was not at a regular interval just at the beginning and the end and wherever you need them. I used the loop, twist, wrap, and twist method. From the back I wraped the pipe cleaner around the fabric and a metal bar and then twisted the ends together. To ensure a tight hold I wrapped the ends around the fabric again and twisted the fabric.

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Now once you get the hang of the weaveing of the burlap you want to make your loops as big, or as small as you want them. The bigger the loops the more burlap you will need.
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So once you have this part done this is what it should look like.
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Now to make it pretty!

This part is totally up to the imagination. I tried out a few different layouts (BEFORE CUTTING!!!) before I landed on this one. Don’t be afraid to get creative, because there is no right or wrong, it’s just what you want…and isn’t that the beauty of a diy project?! Personalization!
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Now, I chose to layer my sold and patterned burlap, so in order to do this I measured…ok eyeballed…what length I wanted of both. Then I used the glue gun to attach the pieces at the end.
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To attach I simply used a half piece of pipe cleaner and attached it to the metal bar. I did this three times.
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This is what it should look like.

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Now I did the same thing with the red. I used the same pipe cleaners that I did for the others to attach the ribbon.
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And for me, no wreath is complete without flowers or a little fru fru! So I added, by using hot glue, flowers to the sections where the ribbon was tucked in. This also allowed me to add the yellow into my wreath that I wanted. I used 5 different flowers, and left one tuck undone. This is because I wanted to add a bow.

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Now to make the bow. It is REALLY simple!

Once again I did not measure, I just eyeballed, so it all depends on how big you want it. I used about an arm’s length of both the solid and orange chevron to make the bow section. I layed them on top of each other and attached the ends together. I then wrapped them (basically made a circle) and glued the ends together.

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Now you want to inch the middle together (to make it look like a bow) and wrap a piece of fabric around the middle. I had some small burlap that I wrapped around three times. I also glued each time I wrapped to ensure a good hold.

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For the tails, I eyeballed the length. It really all depends on how long you want them. I attached the ends with hot glue, but only one side of each side.

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Now fold the top edges back on themselves and glue. This will create that tucked and tied look without the tucking and tying.

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Attach with hot glue to the back of the bow piece.

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Every bow has to be trimmed up and I did this by cutting up and down on the ribbon. It gives the bow a nice finished look.

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Now attach the bow to the wreath with hot glue. I thought it looked super cute to put it on sideways so that is what I did.

Oh, and to hang it I simply attached fishing wire to two of the vertical bars tying knots around adding a small dot of glue to ensure a nice secure hold. I don’t normally do this, but the burlap is a thicker material and would not hang without one.

Viola! All done! Hope ya’ll have fun and get creative!! Remember there is no right or wrong to any of these projects!

 

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~Katie

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Reversible DIY Hammock Cover

Last week we had some pretty cool, un-summer like weather so I pulled out my hammock. There is no better way to spend those nice days than out in the hammock with a good book. However, my hammock is a few years old and by now my strings are quite rough and don’t feel that great. So what I normally do is lay a towel down, but I got tired of always having to readjusting it. So my solution was to get a hammock cover. I’d seen them on some of the newer ones and my mind said “Hey why don’t you just make one!” So I looked and looked for a tutorial but couldn’t find one so I created my own. It really is VERY easy! If you can cut semi straight, sew a straight line, and follow simple instructions you will knock this out super quickly!

Supplies
3 ½ yards of 2 coordinating OUTDOOR fabric
Coordinating thread
Pack of snaps
Sewing machine

Lets get started!!!

First things first. You want to measure your hammock. Mine measured out to 7 feet tall and 5 ft wide.

Next, when you go to pick out your fabric do not buy the regular fabric on the small bolts of fabric, you want to look on the ones on the big rolls. Also when look for fabric that is made for the outdoors and will resist water, fading, and mildew. These are going to be slightly more expensive, but I caught it on sale and had a coupon so it was not so bad. I chose to get two different fabrics to make it reversible.

Fabric pieces

Now lets get down to business.

First step, Lets cut out all of out pieces. We will essentially have three different sections that we cut BED, PILLOW, and STRAPS. I like to put a pillow on the hammock as I read so I made an optional pillow pocket to easily slide the pillow in and out. For the BED piece you want to cut it 82 inches long, cut a piece this long from each fabric. For the PILLOW piece you need to cut a 24 inch piece from each fabric. For the STRAPS pieces you will need 4 – 7 inch tall by 4 inches wide- 4 from each fabric.

So in total you will have 2-BED pieces, 2 PILLOW pieces, 8 Strap pieces.
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Next we want to sew our straps. Placing right sides together, sew around three sides . Leave one side of the strap open. Once you have the three sides sewn turn the strap right side out. Top stich around those three sides. Top stitching creates a nice finished look.

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Top stiching.
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Place the two PILLOW piece right side together and sew along one short side.

Next, place one side of the long PILLOW piece on top of the BED piece, open it up so only once side of the BED piece. Once again place right sides together. Place two of your straps in between the two layers at the top. The STRAPS should be place with the raw edge (the not sewn side) out side of the fabric, while the majority is inside of the two layers. Sew around the short side of the fabric. Sew with a 5/8 seam allowance.
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Now we need to sew together this very large piece to the remaining BED piece. Place 2 straps in between the layers, just like you did before. Sew the final BED piece to the other side of the long PILLOW piece. Once again right sides together.

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Now, take the time to pin around all the long edges. You want the right sides together, with the pillow piece folded out. Place the following 4 STRAP pieces around the bottom. 2 on top of each other, with the raw edge of the outside of the fabric. Sew around the long edges and the bottom piece. Remember leave a pretty decent gap at the bottom (or around one side) so you can turn it right side out. I left about a 7 inch gap because it is a lot of fabric to pull through.

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Sew along the edges
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Turn your fabric right side out. Once this is done you want to turn your gap inside and pin. Top stitch around the sides and bottom. Doing this you will sew up that gap you left when you turn it right side out.
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At this point you are basically done, the straps will easily tie to your hammock, but I decided I wanted to add little snaps to the strap to make it easier. Place the straps around the hammock and decide where you want the straps to be. Use a fabric marker to mark these places. Place the snaps on your markers. Be careful of how you place these. You want the “pointy” ball end to be one side of the strap and the holder on the opposite side of the strap. Follow the instructions on the pack.
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TADA!!!! You are done!! Go place it on your hammock, grab a pillow and a good book and enjoy!
finished Product!
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Tie Straps
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Pillow pocket
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All in one! I was quite happy because it all came from my head!
DONE!

~ KATIE

Baby Quilt with Bridesmaid Dress Pieces

Happy Friday!! I am always on the look out for a creative and sentimental gift idea. So when I ran across the idea to make a baby sized quilt made with patched from the bridesmaid dress that I wore the mommy and daddy’s wedding I just couldn’t resist! I’m going to be honest, this took me about 2 days to complete and had some help from some really helpful websites like The fickle pickle and Diary of a Quilter and my personal manatra “Slow and steady wins the race”, which should be yours as you’re quilting, I finished it! I want you to remember to use your imagination on fabric pattern, layouts, and stitching. Oh and please remember, the first time won’t be perfect so you will develop a really good relationship with your seam ripper so keep it handy. So lets get started.
Supplies
5 different fabric patterns (1 should be the pieces from the bridesmaid dress)
1 ½ yards of coordinating fabric (this will be used for the backing, but also used patched for the quilt)
1 pack of Quilt binding
Light weight quilt batting.
Coordinating thread (I used red)
Fabric scissors (Yes there is a difference
Pins

Lets get started.

Lets start with the obvious, you want to decide how big you want the quilt, and for my first I kept it small. To make it the size I wanted I made each patch a 5 X 5 box and from each fabric pattern I cut six pieces.
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Now once I got my pieces I cut out I laid out my pieces in different patterns until I found one that worked for me. Now remember, it does not have to be laid out like this. Please use your imagination as there is no right or wrong when it comes to pattern layout.
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Once you have it laid out you want to stack your rows. I stack each row from top to bottom. As I did this I pinned the right sides together (once again from top to bottom).
Once you’ve pinned the rows you want to sew the short side together a row at a time. Clear as mud? Take your first row, and where you’ve pinned sew. Doing this until each square in each row is sewn together. ( Yes, you have the option to do this a row at a time and then sew, or pin all the rows at the same time and then sew, it doesn’t really make a difference.) Once you’ve sewn you should end up with 6 different rows of patches sewn together. I surged my edges, to help it nice and neat, but you don’t have to do this.

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Once you’ve sewn please iron your seam to the right. Do NOT SKIP THIS STEP! I don’t like to iron, but I found that when ironed on this project it helped in the end.
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Now we have our 6 rows, and we should sew them together. So take row 1 and row 2, pin right sides together and sew length wise. Repeat this step, always keeping right sides together, until all rows are sewn together. To keep my seam lines straight I lined up my seams and pinned a pin in each square. I used my regular presser foot (because I’m not fancy enough to have the fancy quilting one) and just sewed lining the edge of the fabric along with the edge of my presser foot. Remember “SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE!”
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Once you’ve sewn all of your rows together, iron your seams.
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Now we want to cut our border strips. Using the fabric that we are going to use for our backing cut 4 sections that are a little over 3 inches wide and 14 inches tall. These will be slightly longer that the short sides, but DO NOT CUT the excess fabric off. I did and it created a big mess. Lay your border pieces out. This is what it should look like at this point.
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Once again pin right sides together and sew, remembering that the corners should overlap. Once again, to keep my edges nice and neat I surged my edges, but you don’t have to. But you do have to iron the seams down.

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This is the part where I messed up…but you shouldn’t because I’m telling you what to do. Turning your quilt upside down (so the seams are exposed, let the border strips be open and lay out your binding on top to find out how much batting you need. As you can tell from the picture I did not do this…so please DO it! Do this with your solid back piece also.
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Now for the fun part! Let’s sew it all together!! Remember my mantra…SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE! Taking your front piece (the quilted side), the batting, and the back we are going to sew together. But not like normal, the layers should be like this. Back and front should be pinned right sides together. On the back (where the seams are) the batting should be pinned. The middle layer should be your quilted piece. Sew together all sides leaving a 3-5 inch gap on a straight side so we can turn it right side out.
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Remember that gap I was talking about? You want to reach your arm in that gap and pull the opposite side through that gap, so all that pretty quilting shows!
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Now time to make our quilt look like a quilt! The point to this step is to keep the layers together. Using safety pins pin your seams together. I only pinned two patches for each row and it seemed to work ok.
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I decided to keep it simple and sew straight diagonal lines. I started in the center and worked my way out. Remember, be creative, you can use and kind of pattern here.
Here is what it should look like at this point.
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Now for the fun part…binding! I REALLY struggled with the part, but once I figured it out I rolled it out. Take your pack of binding and outline your quilt. Words and even pictures are not enough to explain how this works, so just play with it and be patient.
Using your rotary board (or whatever you want to use) you want to pin you will mark a 45 degree angle. But first we have to pin together our binding pieces. To do this here is
what we do.
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Putting the raw edges together (with the top raw edge lining up with a solid edge pin together.
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Once you have the back sewn down, you will roll the binding over and pin the binding to the top. Remember…SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE! My binding got all messed up in my experimenting so I ended up with rounded corners and some barely visible borders….but you get the point. Hindsight is 20/20 and I know what I did wrong.
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TADA! Once you’ve finished with the binding you are done and it should look something like this…but perhaps a little neater!
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Have fun and be creative!!
~Katie

Back to School Teacher Bouquet

Here in Tennessee it is back to school time. I don’t have any kids but I never miss the chance to make cute back to school gifts for my teacher mother. Today is no different. One of the essentials for teachers are expo markers. So while browsing pinterest I ran across this bouquet idea that was adorable for a teachers desk. Once I figured out how I was going to do this it was an easy project. Ready to get started?

Supplies:
Large clay pot (Plain or decorated)
16 pack of expo markers
Green tissue paper (or Easter grass)
paint (in your choice of colors)
Styrofoam square
stencils
toothpicks
tape
Construction paper
Hole Punch

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First we are going to paint our “#1 teacher” onto our pot. I used a reusable stencil set, because I am not a big fan of my handwriting. Now if you are more creative and artsy feel free to do it yourself. In order to keep my pot still I had to prop it up, but I just used two paper towels to keep it steady as I painted.

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*Hint with this brand of stickers I found that it was easier to pull them off while the paint was wet…not dry. So, whatever brand you use try it out first to see what works better.

Second, next we want to cut out our flowers. I used 4 different colors (yellow, pink, blue, and purple). **Hint* an easy way to cut out the flowers is to stack the papers and then staple the corners. Now, I used a flower stencil…well an oval traced 4 times to create the flower. I found that not cutting all the way down created a better flower than what you think it should be. Remember you want to leave space in the middle for a hole.

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Now that our flower are cut out, lets put a hole in the center. I found that doing one hole and then punching slightly out twice was the best way. Once you have the hole punched place them on the top of the expo marker. Don’t worry about permanently attaching the flowers to the top because the teacher will pull them off as they use them.

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Now it’s time to fix up the inside. First, either grab your green Easter grass, OR if you’re like me your tissue paper and a shredder. I had to get creative to get my grass, so I ran 3 sheets of tissue paper through my extra fine shredder. I ended up with grass like pieces.

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Now take your Styrofoam piece, I used a square piece that just sat in the pot. I did this in case my mom, or your teacher, can use it for another purpose and not have a mess.
Now notice…I have some space on the sides. To fix this I cut four pieces of paper and rounded the corners and taped them on. I did this so my “Grass” did not fall through the cracks and then I would end up with a nice even coat of “Grass”. Add the grass once the inside is fixed up. If you do it later it will be slightly harder to get a nice even coat.

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Almost done! To stick the markers into the Styrofoam I used toothpicks and tape. I simply taped the toothpick to the outside of the marker, leaving overhang at the top to prevent the toothpick from sliding. After than I used another piece to wrap around the bottom. Please note, do not use hot glue on these because it will mess up how the marker top sits in the bottom while in use.

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Now notice I put the toothpick at the bottom of the “USA”. I did this because I needed the markers in the middle to be taller than the ones on the outside. For the markers on the outside, tape the tip of the toothpick at the top of the “USA”.

Now when sticking the markers in start in the middle using your “taller” markers and work your way out. Don’t worry of the “flowers” fall off, you can easily put them back on.

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TADA!!! You’re finished! Now notice that my pot is more decorated than I talked about, and you are more that able to decorate as you please. I definitely wanted more than the #1 teacher. Y’all enjoy, have fun, and have a great back to school season!

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~Katie

Candy Sucker Bouquet

Every day you want something that looks pretty, but also serves a functional purpose. This project is an easy project and really should only take an hour. I use this candy sucker bouquet as desk ornamentation, but for functionality it gives me something for an empty stomach that I get from the inevitable days where I end up working through lunch or as treats for kids. It is a simple project that even kids can do. Y’all ready to start?

Supplies
Clay pot (either painted or unpainted)
Styrofoam ball
Hot glue gun/sticks
1 bag of dum dum suckers (300 pack)

I chose to use an already painted pot, but if you choose to paint your pot you will want to use an acrylic paint and then use a sealer to make it shiny. This will add an extra few hours due to the drying process.

I found all my stuff at walmart but if you can’t find it there check out your local craft stores. While at the store you want to find a Styrofoam ball that fits nice and snug inside the pot. There is no need to cut the Styrofoam ball so it just needs to fit inside it.

Now once you’re at home, grab your glue gun and place the Styrofoam ball into the pot and glue around the edges, like so…
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Now once the hot glue has cooled you can start adding the suckers. I started at the bottom on this one with a slight angle down just to keep the Styrofoam ball from showing. Once I did that initial row I went to the top center and worked out from there. I placed them as close as I could as straight as I could. Have fun with part there is no right or wrong.
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See now its nice and pretty. Place it and display it. It creates a nice conversation piece at work and adds just enough functionality. The bonus to this project is once all of the suckers are eaten you can easily replace them into the holes already made. 1 bag will roughly give you two bouquets. I love it and the people at work enjoy it, so enjoy!

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~ Katie

Patriotic Wreath

Summer time is here! It’s time for backyard BBQ’s, ball games, and patriotic holidays! I love summer and I love my country, so when I sat down to make this project I wanted something that could work for all of the patriotic holidays. It’s really easy and very simple. So lets get started.

Supplies:
Foam Wreath
1 Roll of solid blue ribbon
1-2 Rolls of red and white stripped Ribbon
Pack of glitter letters
String
Hot glue gun/sticks
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First we want to cut off just the back of your wreath to make it flat. This helps with the wreath laying flat against the door.

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Next step! You want to mark off the section you want the blue ribbon to go. Once you do that grab your hot glue gun and start gluing.

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Now you want to wrap (without gluing) the ribbon to see how you want it to look. This is really a personal preference so eyeball it, but I just wrapped the ribbon so that the edges slightly overlapped.

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So once you’ve figured out how you want your ribbon to wrap, start with the gluing. I did a line on the previous section and a line on the foam so the ribbon lays on it.

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This is what it should look like.

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Now on to the second ribbon. Starting in the back, where your blue ended, glue and wrap. The best way I found to get the best long term wrap is overlapping the ribbon about 1/2 and inch. Just pull tight and glue like you did in the blue section.

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This is what it should look like.

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Kind of plain isn’t it? Lets jazz it up. Grab your glitter stickers and your string and lets get started.

Figure out what you want it to say and how you want it to look and find your letters. In my case, I wanted something that would be good for the whole summer, so I decided on “God Bless America”.

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Once you’ve figured out how you want it to look, flip it over and peel off the back of the sticker. This makes the placement on the string A LOT easier!

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Now you want to glue your string on. Figure out where you want your words to be place one end on the back of your wreath. When doing this I placed a generous amount of glue on the end of the string, and once it cooled off enough to touch I pressed down on it. I think I get a better hold when I do that.

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Now you want to glue your letters on. I did a line or dots where the string touched the letters. Eventually I realized that some of the letter liked to tilt because there wasn’t enough weight on the letter to keep it right side up. My solution was just to put a dot of glue to even the weight.

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Once you’ve attached that’s it! Now you have a simple patriotic wreath that is good for all patriotic holidays!

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Thanks for visiting!
~Katie

Baby Boy Tux Bib

So in my family all I have is boys, and I like cute things, but you can’t buy cute things for little boys. So with all the little boy baby showers I’ve been to recently I’ve settled on one really cute handmade baby boy gift. The original idea came from a crochet pattern, but that is one thing that I’ve never learned how to do. So I pulled out my sewing machine and made this adorable Tuxedo Bib! Ready?

SUPPLIES

2 Hand towels- 1 black and 1 white

3 black buttons

Snap clasps

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Lets cut out the fabric of both the black and white towels. The best way I have found to do this is by using an old bib at an outline. So what you want to do is lay out the real bib, folded in half and cut around the outline.

Next we want to measure the length of the bib. Cut out the middle 3 inches of the black fabric. DSC05904

Now, cut three inches of your white towel And pin right sides together. So all together you will have three pieces. 2 Black side pieces and 1 small middle pieces. For this project it doesn’t really matter which side is the right side as long as it lays out like a bib. So once you’ve pinned one side sew it, then do the other side. Should end up with something like this. DSC05910
Now, you want to attach your buttons. You want to do this step here because you don’t want the thread from attaching them shown on the back.
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Once you have the front of the bib sewn together you will want to attach the front (the one with the buttons) to the one solid white piece (Back). Pin around the edges and sew. I usually sew a seam that lines up with the edge of my presser foot. You want to leave a 2 inch gap between your start and stopping points, so you can turn this thing right side out in a minute.
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Now turn it right side out. You’ll have to pull and push those neck pieces a little to get the right look. Sew that gap up using the same seam allowance as you did for the inside.
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Now we want to attach our clasps. Lay out where you want them. To get them to fit right I had to give the area a little haircut. Follow the instructions on the package for attachment purposes. But here is how I did mine.
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That’s it ya’ll! It so cute! It can be worn to all the nice little places that families go.
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~Katie

DIY Car Napkin Holder

Admit it, we all eat fast food at some point or another. In those fast food bags we get napkins that we rarely use and they usually get thrown into someplace taking up a lot of unnecessary space, but we still keep them because of those emergencies that are inevitable. In my car I have a small glove box and a lot of napkins, so I set out to create something to keep them organized and neat so they don’t take up a lot of space. So here is what we need.

Supplies:

1/2 yard of fabric

sewing machine/serger 

Our first step is to cut our fabric. You will have 3 different strips.

Here are the dimensions: (Long x Wide)

Top & Bottom – cut 2 8” x 5”

Sides- Cut 2 8” x 2 ½”

Top & Bottom Sides- Cut 2 10” x 2 ½”

You should have 2 of each which equals 6 pieces all together.

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Step 2: Next you want to pin right sides of your fabric together. I usually do one side at a time, but you can pin all on. For the sake of this tutorial you will see one side at a time and the top and the two side pieces first. Hint: When I say right sides together, I mean patterned side together.

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Step 3: Sew your sides together. Ok, I was slightly lazy and decided to just serge the edges instead of sew and serge, but it works just fine.

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Step 4: Once you have your top piece and two side pieces sewn together you want to grab your top & bottom side piece and sew it onto what you have.

Step 5: Now grab your bottom piece and sew it to your other sides.  Remember keep right sides together as you sew.  It should look something like this when your done.

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Step 6: Fold down your top/bottom side down and pin the middle to the bottom piece.

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Step 7: You are going to have these triangular corners, and that OK! What you want to do now is pin the sides  and sew along the side. Don’t sew on the angle sew on the side where you’ve already sewn.  Now, you’ve sewn one side, but you want to continue around each of the edges. Do this to both the top and the bottom.

Once you’ve sewn all sides together you should have something that looks like this!

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Step 8: Notice, I didn’t tell you to leave a gap or not sew completely around to turn it right side out?  So how do we get the pretty side t show? Well that’s where this step come in. Pinch in the middle and snip. And then cut your sides and your other short side. You should have something that looks like this. I made a really big hole because I wanted ease of access in case of those emergencies, and for easy loading and unloading of those pesky napkins.

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Step 9: Serge where you’ve just cut to keep the fabric from fraying. OK, we are not all fancy and have sergers, so if you just have a sewing machine what you want to do is fold your edges down and sew around the edge.

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Step 10: Turn right side out! Should look like this!

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Step 11: Stuff with your napkins

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When all is said and done, your finished product should look like this!

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Enjoy! And I hope keeps those napkins organized!

~Katie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Simple Spring Wreath

One of my newest obsessions is making wreaths. I do not get fancy in it, I go for simple and cute. So when the warmer weather started rolling in, my Christmas ornament wreath had to go and I needed a wreath that could last me the rest of a southern winter, spring, and on into summer. I admit I have a wreath for almost every season now, and I could keep going! My vision for this wreath was polka dots and flowers, colors being coral and blue, and top it off with my initial. So on a hunting trip I went. I hit up my favorite stores Hobby Lobby and Michaels to find all of this. So are you ready to see this masterpiece? Here is what you will need:
Supplies
Foam wreath circle
1 Yard of fabric or a roll of ribbon (if you find that is what you want)
2 coordinating paint colors
5-7 flowers (coordinating colors and different sizes)
Paint sealant
Wooden Monogram
Hot glue gun
Wire cutters
Scissors
Paint brushes

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Ready to start?
Step 1: Since I wanted to paint my initial this had to be my first step because it requires several coats of paint and time to dry. My letter came from Michaels and therefore had to be painted. So grab your paint, I used the acrylic paint that can be found in the painting section at hobby lobby (if you want more choices) or even Walmart (if you are going for more basic colors). Paint the letter with your base color, in my case this would be my coral, with about 2 coats allowing time to dry in between coats.
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Step 2: While your first coat is drying grab your fabric. Yes, I used fabric because I could not find ribbon that I liked. Spread out your fabric and cut in 4 inch sections length wise. In reality, if you get a yard it should be pretty close to a square, so then it would depend on your pattern. I cut 5 strips, just to be on the safe side. So that makes 5 strips that are 4 inches wide and the length of your fabric long.
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Step 3: Ready for an easy step? Cut the stems off your flowers using your wire cutters. Make sure you get them as close to the flower at you can, otherwise it won’t be “flat/even”. At this point it would be a good idea to paint your second coat of your letter. Want some advice on how to shop at hobby lobby? 1st there is ALWAYS a coupon for 40% off on the internet, so get on your phone and find it to get a nice little discount on regular priced items. 2nd, if it is not on sale the week you go, go back the next week and it will be on sale. This comes in handy when buying fabric or flowers, or really anything you buy at hobby lobby!
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Step 4: Grab your foam ring. Now we want to make the back of the ring flat. This is important because it helps the wreath sit flat when hanging on your door. The trick to this is making sure you have a sharp knife (like a butcher’s knife), go slow, and cut AWAY from your body. This well be a very messy step so beware!
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Step 5: Time to make your letter pretty. This step may not be necessary if your vision is different. I wanted polka dots on my letter…ok I admit, what I really wanted was chevron, but that got complicated very fast so I adjusted. Squirt your coordinating color onto your plate, and use the top of your paint bottle to make the perfect size polka dot. Do not press down hard, just lightly rest it. Once you pull it off you might want to go back and use a paint brush to evenly distribute the color. Let dry!
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Step 6: Grab your foam ring and your fabric strips. Time to wrap this baby up! Starting at the back (the flat side) hot glue your fabric at a slight angle to your wreath.
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Let break this down to make it easier.
Wrap your fabric around gluing anytime your fabric intersects in the back. Ideally want about an inch overlap of your fabric. It is going to pucker, so just glue that down to. Do this on every rotation!
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Once you end one fabric and you are ready to start on another, make sure you start in the back! Your back does not have to look pretty, but your front does!This is what your wrapping process should look like…
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Now you have wrapped the whole thing, but notice those wrinkles at the top? Glue them back!
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Check out how I did this! Fold back (toward the back) and glue under and in the crease.
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Step 6: Spray a layer of sealer on your letter to keep it nice and shiny. This needs to dry for about 2 hours.
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Step 7: Attach your flowers. First you want to lay them out and get a good idea of how you want it to look before you glue it down. I added these long ones just to give it some depth, but you do not have to!
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Step 8: Once your letter has dried, attach it to your wreath and viola! You are done!
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Is this not adorable! Hope you have fun, and do not be afraid to be creative! Happy crafting!!

~Katie

DIY monthly onsies

One of the most popular trends right now are those cute little onsies that moms take during their baby’s first year. Makes for a great photo op and a cute way to document growth. So when I first saw them I started looking for places to by them, and wouldn’t you know they cost an arm and a leg! So I sat down and figured out how to make them. They are NOT hard at all, and can even be done within an hour before the baby shower. So what do you need to do these?
Supplies
Onsies (I usually use Child o mine, because they are cheaper, but for this project I used Gerber because they had all my sizes)
1 pack 0-3 months
1 pack 3-6 months
2 packs 6-12 months
Computer transfer paper (a 3 pack usually works fine)
**Make sure your pack does not say to mirror image your image…This creates an unnecessary step, but if you do I’ll tell you how to fix it.**
A new ink cartridge and a printer (You want a new one because it uses a lot of ink, and the color might fade during printing.)
obviously a computer
Iron
pillow case
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So are you ready to begin? Look out for the little tips I offer, I’ve done this about 5 times now!
Our first step would be to design or find your pattern. My first go round was for a baby girl, and what better way to do it than with a crown? I made my own on Microsoft word. The last four times I made these I had to do them for boys, at first I made my own, but couldn’t find just the right thing that would work with everybody. But what’s cuter or even more popular than the baby tie? I couldn’t find how to make this and couldn’t. And ALAS! I found a free downloadable printable I use here. So just download and print!

So lets say you picked up a pack of computer transfer paper and the directions tell you to mirror image your image (and yes I’ve done this multiple times, because I forget to read the back/instructions before I buy)…WHAT DO I DO! Take a deep breath. Two simple steps! First you want to click in Microsoft word click SAVE AS and under your file name there is a “save as type”, save it as a 1997-2003 document. This is because you can’t do this in the current versions. Second step. Find the “rotate” button. Mine is under “Page layout” but depending on your computer it might be different. Once you select your picture and rotate click “Flip Horizontal”. That should do the trick. So let me explain real quick why you want to mirror the image. The image (or number) will be backwards so you will look at it and think you’re dyslexic. So make sure you flip those numbers if your instructions tell you to!

Ok, so we’ve printed this out now to the fun part. Cut them out! So here is where we are at…
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*Can you see how my numbers are flipped?

Now, lay the image where you want it (color side down) and press it! But hold on! Here is a little tip, you are going to lay it on a cotton pillow case. You want something to absorb the heat otherwise your transfer won’t work right. Place your pillow case on a hard surface, I use my counter top. Do not use an ironing board!
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*Notice, my number appears normal now that it’s ironed on

Press firmly along all edges and do not use your steam setting! This should take about a minute. Once done lay to the side and let cool. Conveniently this lets you do another one.
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Next, you’ve got all of your images ironed on, so the next thing you do is remove the paper. Do this very slowly and after it has completely cooled otherwise your image might come off around the edges!
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Continue to do this on all onsies, and please make sure the number corresponds with the right onsie size. That’s it yall! Aren’t they so cute?! Have fun.
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One final tip, when you wrap it try a long clothes box once you’ve folded those cute little things! Enjoy!
~Katie